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This robe was leftover from estate sale. The auctioneer said to me no one wants it because it’s dirty and has ware. It was priced fair from day one. I looked inside and looked like a Guangxu mark. I told him the condition is not bad for a antique silk textile he looked at me and said your the only one interested give me $250 it’s yours. That’s more than a fair price . I need some translation help. I do know this was formal opera or celebration coat for Imperial grandchild this would have been the wife of Guangxu grandson according to Christie’s. But I not sure.
That should clean up nicely, Brian. I don't know how it should be done; I imagine the dry cleaners isn't the way to go.
I do not think this is Imperial quality, but very pretty. I would not risk cleaning, neither the risk nor the cost makes sense to me. I think it is later than Guangxu....looks Republic to mid 1950's.
I can't get very close up but I agree with Tim. The stitches look like satin stitch and couch stitch, not terribly well done so my feeling is not Imperial quality. Also the colours look to be later than Guangxu, maybe mid 20th c but perhaps you can tell more from the way the damask is done?
I also agree that it is very pretty and of course, I could easily be wrong in my opinion on the age, may be some close-ups would help?
I reached out to a expert in silk I’ll update when she gets back to me.
I don't know Brian, it was more of a question as to whether it is possible. Maybe there is someway of telling if the loom was mechanised or manual?
They are shop names. "华字号 -hua zi hao. And “徐锦荣华字号” -
Yin
Interesting. Are you able to share what the evidence was for that, please? It would be useful to know.
I will try to explain it best I can. She told me that the Han tradition was strict in the Qing dynasties and the coats or robes where cut and sewn to a specific template she knew it was bridal because of the way it’s built and the ground color of red. She said in the Republic period the cut and shape plus design changed the arms became smaller and instead of the arm curving up the arm pit at the chest the panel would just go straight across like a T. She said coats in the Republic were made for tourist for the west. And the shops shaped the coats and robe differently according to western taste she also indicated that bands around the collar was a republic add on not a Qing transitional style. She also said the stitching is done in a way so that the shop can disassemble the coat after a wedding and alter it for another wedding. Here is an example of the cutting difference between Qing and republic that was explained.
Hope this helped.
Here is another example
coat above cut panels in the non traditional republic way. Arm bands are thinner and the panels go straight across to the chest panel.
This coat cut in the Qing traditional way arm bands are much thicker and curved up at armpit
Thank you, Brian, that is very interesting to know. I hadn't given any thought to the shape and cut. My concerns were primarily with the colours, eg the bats, and with the lower part, which to my mind didn't seem to go with the upper bit, and doesn't match up well. It just shows how important it is to look at the whole piece with clothing as well as porcelains etc.
I will look around for other examples to compare the design with. Interesting about the stitching, I thought it looked a bit slack. I will save your explanation into my embroidery file, if that Is ok. 😊
@julia no problem the explanation I gave is for bridal long pao this isn’t necessarily the same standard for everyday clothing non informal just ceremonial of the Qing period. The panels not lining up she said this was very common on bridal coats as the panels were made in different locations and tailored in a separate shop. Almost like porcelain where the pot was fired in one kiln and the lid in another. In the imperial silk shop the standards were much stricter an uneven seem was not acceptable. As the separate shops made the panels the overall design was done by a template.
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Bonhams are international auctioneers of fine Chinese and Japanese art. We specialise in rare Imperial and Export Chinese ceramics and works of art, as well as Japanese ceramics, fine and decorative works of art from the Neolithic Period to the 20th century. View on map
Bonhams Fine Art Auctioneers & Valuers: auctioneers of art, pictures, collectables and motor cars. We use cookies to remember choices you make on functionality and personal features to enhance your experience to our site. By continuing to use our site you consent to the use of cookies. ... Asian Art Bonhams. Work. 22 Queen St.